Passau-Vienna cycle journey

Past events: I exchanged a few letters last year with Zoltan Puskas (https://nagyvilagban.hu/). He likes making day/weeklong bike adventures. After I read his books I deceided to make a couple of multiple days tour. My last one was in 2017. As a full time worker I don’t have much free time. I really liked my last tour in Slowakia, therefore I deceided to continue my Danube journey, this time in Austria.

The route: Passau – Obernzell – Grünau – Jochenstein – Schlögen – Inzell – Kobling – Haibach – Aschach – Feldkirchen – Puchenau – Linz – Steyregg – Mauthausen – Au – Grein – Persenburg – Emmersburg – Dürnstein – Krems – Tulln – Wien (by train) – Mödling

(Experience) Report: Multiple days tour with Shrek. I had to change 2 times train till my final destination. Along the way I studied the map and description because I didn’t really prepare much for the tour in advance.

Arriving in Passau I immediately went for a beer. I was not able to visit Germany for two years. That means I could nor really get my hands on/try German beers. Fails: I left my bike maintanance tools at home, my memory card from gopro as well, and I ran out of spare tubes. After I leaved the town and the street lights, one of my bags got eaten up by the freehub body… It was unpleasant. I had to take everything off, get the rear wheel out, and I was able to get out the bag out of trouble. It took some effort and energy but at least I can ride again. After I mady my bike ready a young rider approached me, if I can repair his flat. I had to say no.

A little bit later I saw a big firework on the other side of the river. Who said that German people aren’t kind? They even gave me a wonderful firework. Sipping beer while seeing the colorful effects… The reflection of water made the effects even better. I didn’t have much time left, because a second firework has began just after I placed my tent down. I could not fix my tent to the ground, so I had some issues with the wind/rain. This was a busy and memorable 20 km long ride.

After 1 am the rain was not so loud anymore, and I could sleep for a couple of hours. The morning view was fantastic; the nearby mountains were floating in clouds (or the clouds were floating in the mountains?). I had a quick breakfast and I tried to reach the other side of the river. The dam was closed, and I passed the bridge too. I had to wait one hour, till I could go by boat. Meanwhile I asked a local woman if she has something to open up the phone and take out the memory card. Before the boat ride I was able to start my gopro. My fans can have some nice footages. The curve of Danube in Schlögen was beautiful.

One part on the right side was closed down. I had to choose between two options: I can take a boat in Koblinz or I can test my new 32 teeth gear ont he uphill. I chose the last one. I made an energizing break on the top and to went down to Aschach. I got back to the left side of the river through a bridge.  I checked out the lakes of Feldkirchen and the motoric park. It was not in 100% shape, the time and weather caused some erosion on it.

 After that I had a small walk in Linz. I wanted to hunt down a MM for a new memory card and get a spare tube as well. My main program was the botanic garden. I hesitated between the animal park and the botanic garden. Because the first one is rather a family a program, I chose the colder botanic garden. I made some nice pictures, and I bought some postcards, meanwhile my tent dried up before the garden. I wanted to visit the Lager in Mauthausen, but I was running too late. In exchange I made a little town visit.

My ultimate goal would have been a beer in Grein (with the castle). After the sunset the rain poured down heavily. I cycled for one hour (because it felt good) and I found a relatively good place for overnight. I was not able to sleep in the tent. The building had a big roof, which saved me from the rain. I didn’t calculated with mosquitos. My open forehead was a free prey for them. I hated they high frequency sound.

After the rain stopped (around 7 AM) I continued my journey. I would have stayed in my warm sleeping bag…

The first KM’s were slow. After a long day in the saddle I had some sore muscles. The morning was chilly, I struggled with the wind too. Then suddenly the wind disappeared, and my warm sunlight reappeared. The mountains around the Danube made the landscape beautiful. The Wachau region was also beautiful with its vineyards.

You can find a lot of smaller (and a couple of bigger) towns along the cycle path. Because I didn’t have good holiday weather I was not able to organize extra programs. I had a break at the fuel station in Krems, and I stopped once in Dürnstein, because I found a really nice T-Shirt with Passau-Vienna text. I had back programs before I reached Tulln.

In the town the weather got worse and the train station shone like the door of Heaven. I hopped on the train (to Vienna). The warm air of the train was unbearable. Leaving the train and riding home in bad weather with null energy was even worse. I started the washing machine and I occupied the bed early that day.

Recommendation: The cyclepath is amazing. It follows the Danube really closely. On most parts both the right and left part is cyclable. You should calculate with min. 7 days for this route. You can have sightseeing, bath, try some advanterous hiking paths, visit museums, parks. Everything is up to you. The opposite direction is also good, but be aware of the wind direction.

Video: Will be available.